Sunday Notes: Sourdough Bagels, Finally

Bagels have been the white whale. Every previous batch was pale, tough, and eerily bread-like. Great sourdough. Terrible bagel.

The change, from a well-worn King Arthur post: barley malt syrup in the boil, not sugar or baking soda. Two minutes per side, then straight to a 475°F stone. The crust took on that lacquered mahogany color you want and the crumb tightened into proper chew.

The rest — cold-retarded dough, low hydration around 60%, high-protein flour — was already fine. The boil was the missing piece.